Saturday, October 20 2007

We've been here two weeks and things remain surprisingly quiet in the International Zone. (The IZ is some times called the Green Zone, but this is a misnomer that could lull people into a false sense of security, or, worse, make them think this was where Saddam had established an environmentally friendly area - dictatorships are always bad for the environment, as is war and violence in general.) The IZ is relatively safe, but that is relative to the rest of Baghdad. the truth is that sectarian violence is down over the last 6 weeks in most parts of the city and the IZ has seen very few indirect fire attacks too. But, it still is a dangerous place, and the people of Baghdad live in fear of what might happen to them.

The weather. Dusty hot days continue. Rain, and the resultant mud, threatens but has yet to arrive. for any of you who are not a friend of the earth or a tree hugger, visit a dry, dusty place and you will begin to appreciate the importance of trees in scrubbing the air, reducing dustiness, providing shade, homes for birds, etc. Of course, in such places, trees need lots of care, unlike many parts of america east of the Mississippi where the trees would cover everything if we did not cut them down/trim them back. On the palace grounds, the birds in the trees sing, or at least make a lot of noise, when the sun is going down. Much to the surpirse and dismay of the urbanized americans, those birds do their duty without concern for pooper scooper laws prevalent in urban america. Fairly, the smokers' areas are placed under the trees. You thought it was to shade the smokers from the hot sun? no, it is too give the little chickadees a chance for vengeance agains the smokers who foul the air with their vile cigarette habit. (For me, it is a fine cigar poolside in the sunshine rather than under the inhabited trees.)

Housing: Promises of moves to the new embassy housing compound in November are hedged with the oft-stated "security conditions permitting". Moving Chief of Mission personnel to the new housing compound befor moving them into the new embassy building would create a marvelous set of problems about shuttling people back and forth. so, we wait to see. and, with the decision to incorporate/include some of the military's staff into the new housing, well, those nice one-bedroom condo-like units have gone from cute and cozy one-person units to cramped and crowded two-person units. BTW: Nancy and I had to present our marriage certificate to prove we were a married couple. part of the rules. i'm quite happy, of course, with the rule that the two room trailers can only be shared by same-sex couples (not that type of same-sex couple!) unless they are married to each other, but requiring a copy of our marriage license when we are of the same last name and on the same travel orders seemed a bit much. the best was the look of genuine surprise on the face of the housing official when i told him, "no, i did not bring my marriage license with me nor do I have it in my wallet with my driver's license."

The Empire: As a historian by training, i'm fascianted by the similarities between what i see in the u.s.-dominated coatlition's presence vis-a-vis the local government and population and what I read about the British Empire's dealing with subject peoples in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras. our notions of sovereignty and governance are fine ones; but without the proper tutelage, we really can't let the locals run things, now can we? i think we realize we will be hoisted on our own petard someday, that is that at some point the Iraqis will say, "Thanks for the training in running a democratic country under the rule of law. No we can run things - go home." but, that day is not around the corner, though I don't think it is decades away either. seems our role is to speed that day while not expecting too much too fast. we must be persuasive and patient, nudging them along while giving a hand as required.

that's all for now. off to the mall - local artisans who operate next to the PX.

EgS

Baghdad Arrival

We arrived in Baghdad via Paris and Amman 38 hours after departing the U.S. Nice hotel accomodations in Amman, a city built on 7 good size hills, and within easy drive of the Dead Sea. We plan to visit the Dead Sea, maybe even Jerusalem, N'sh'allah, on the return trip. could be interesting.

First impressions of Baghdad: dust, dust, and more dust. We are approaching the end of Ramadan, so the city has been relatively quiet (emphasis on the relatively). We expect a lot of noise, from many sources, once Ramadan ends.

Food is good, and it's plentiful. Water is unsafe, go for the bottled stuff only.

Sunsets are quite attractive - credit the dust in the air.

4 October 2007 A.D.